Applecross

Nestled between the Island of Raasay to the west (and beyond that the Isle of Skye) and Lochcarron to the east lies the beautiful Applecross Peninsular. Accessible by only two roads, we chose to drive the spectacular “Bealach na Ba” or “Pass of the Cattle”. The locals refer to this, with typical understatement, as “going over the hill”. It truly is a spectacular route, the road rising from sea level at Loch Kishorn to just over 2,000 feet in a distance of just 5 miles. It is single track, albeit with numerous passing places, and you are strongly advised against trying to tow a caravan. The views at the top are breathtaking as you look westwards towards the mountains of Skye and the Outer Isles. A more measured descent of a further 6 miles or so follows and you arrive at Applecross Bay.

I first visited Applecross over 30 years ago and it is re-assuring to see a community that is addressing head-on some of the issues that must be faced to survive and thrive in what can only be described as a fragile and remote location. Just over 200 people live and work in an area consisting of numerous tiny communities (some of a few houses only). If its action and nightlife that you are after then don’t even bother coming over “The Hill”- but if it is tranquillity and peace that you are seeking then there are few more beautiful places on earth to spend a few days.

At the centre of all this inaction is the Applecross Hotel. Offering 7 rooms (all en-suite) and serving food of the very highest quality. The windows positively buckle under the weight of the stickers proclaiming the awards that the Inn has won – and rightly so. We ate for 3 nights (and 2 lunches) from the surprisingly wide choice on offer and were never disappointed. Of particular note is the excellent standard of customer service that seems to come as second nature to the staff. The Hotel is exceptionally popular so be prepared to book well in advance if you need accommodation. If you only require a meal then as a general rule bookings are only taken for parties of five or more. But otherwise turn up and they will fit you in – the barman boasted to us that they had never turned anyone away yet!

If you prefer something with a little more of the home-from-home feeling there are several B & Bs in the area. We stayed in one for a night and if the others come even near the welcome and comfort that we enjoyed then you really are spoilt for choice.

For those who favour the “great outdoors”, the Applecross Campsite is situated just behind the Hotel. Open all year round it has all the facilities that you would expect including the wonderful “Flower Tunnel” Café. Camping Huts are a recent addition offering a stylish alternative to a night under canvass. There is also a Cash machine – the only one for miles around

Stood outside of the Hotel for most of the year is “A’Comraich”. She is a scaled down model of a lifeboat with, it would appear, a personality of her own. Her page on Bebo lists her exploits over the past 6 years, which include being “pulled by a bunch of nutters” (her words not mine) throughout the Highlands to raise funds for the RNLI and various Cancer charities. Over £100,000 has so far been raised in over 300 miles of travelling. Apparently she is “scared of nothing” and lists the Proclaimers as her favourite band.

On the northern edge of Applecross Bay (approximately a mile from the Hotel) stands Clachan Church, built close to the site of monastery that was founded in the 7th century by a monk from Ireland named Maelrubha. The Gaelic name for Applecross is A’Comraich – meaning Sanctuary. Long before the exploits of the Bebo boasting boat that shares the same name, it was here that the monks established a sanctuary for those in trouble or fleeing for their safety; the area marked by a series of standing stones. Sadly nothing of the monastery remains except for a cross slab to the right of the gates to the graveyard. The current church dates from 1817 and is only occasionally used. Next door to the church is the Heritage Centre. Staffed entirely by volunteers and opened in 2003, it contains a wealth of history of the peninsular and surrounding areas.

Within the walled garden of Applecross House, The Potting Shed Restaurant is a real hidden gem. Photos show the enormous amount of hard work that went in to restoring the gardens and the shed to the high standard that you see today. A more limited menu than the Hotel but with the same quality and reasonable prices.

Further afield, to the north, take the road to Shieldaig (26 miles away) and you will lose count of the times that you stop the car to take in and marvel at the wonderful views. The road was only opened on 1975 and links half a dozen or so tiny communities that were previously only accessible by either boat or foot. When the Pass of the Cattle is closed due to adverse weather conditions this is the only route in or out of Applecross.

Four miles to the south of Applecross the peninsular finishes at Toscaig where the ferry used to run to The Kyle of Lochalsh. You pass through the villages of Camusteel and Camasterach on the way and take time to take a slight detour to the right and visit the tiny settlement of Ard-dhubh.

To fully appreciate the area you really need to be prepared to do a bit of walking. The choice is limitless and accommodates all levels. From a gentle stroll around the bay and the grounds of Applecross House to a more energetic hill walk to the north from the Church over to the site of an ancient settlement at Sand on the coast. On the road to Ard-dhubh look out for a signpost on you left after about 400 yards and take the path a couple of miles to two remote settlements of two houses each that are only otherwise accessible by the sea.

In the summer be prepared to fight off the dreaded “midges” and make sure you have sufficient supplies of insect repellent. Additionally if you are hiring a car try and specify an automatic – the drive over “the hill” will certainly be more comfortable without the frequent need to change gear. We were fortunate in that the hire car we had picked up at Inverness airport was automatic and it made a real difference.

My last visit to Applecross had been back in 1990. I remember when I left then fearing that this was a community in decline - an ageing and declining population with limited facilities to encourage visitors to this most beautiful area. They have more than addressed these issues but as in any fragile and remote region there are other matters that threaten the status quo: The “second home syndrome” has had a marked effect in pricing the current generation out of the local housing market but, unlike urban areas, it is not a case of simply moving a few miles up the road. The resolution of this through the provision of affordable housing is essential in ensuring that the community can continue to survive. I know that there are a lot of good people working to resolve this and other matters and I wish them every success. In the meantime, I defy anyone to visit and not walk away marvelling at the sheer magnificence of the scenery and the warmth and kindness of its lucky inhabitants.